Decoy Limited, Alexander Valley, Merlot, 2022

This beautiful wine brings you to the threshold to see one of the best handlers of Merlot in the world. The Duckhorns have made their name from this variety and in this, single appellation version, you get all their know-how and quality, at a superb price point. 

It is a wine that possesses immense polish and finesse, with concentrated flavours of dark fruits, blueberry compote and spice notes of chocolate and vanilla. It is helplessly silky, beautifully smooth and full-bodied, offering dense, lush and enveloping flavours with its bear-hug like velvety texture. You had me at hello.

Decoy was established in 1985 as a sort of second label to the Duckhorn winery. Its following allowed the brand to grow and develop in to land purchases and eventually the creation of its own winery as a stand alone project in 2008. The range of wines made by Decoy certainly has its origins in the Duckhorn winery, following the classic varietals and winemaking philosophies that are there, but there is an elegance and liveliness to these wines that seems to be more vital, held by excellent tension. The other thing that really marks out Decoy is that they operate with fruit from outside Napa - this is a winery that represents the rest of California, in glorious, detailed precision with generosity and charm. This is a range of wines that is a most unusual thing in the US: high quality and affordable.

This wine comes from the most recent release of Decoy wines, their 'Decoy Limited' series, that sources grapes for each wine from one specific sub-region within California. Merlot has had a tricky time gaining a reputation for greatness outside of Napa, but here in the Alexander Valley, there seem to be perfect conditions for growing all Bordeaux varietals and Merlot is able to reach really great heights. They also do something that experience has taught them (and Bordeaux winemakers too) which is to add a small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon into the blend - it adds a little more structure, colour and depth, but it's also possible that the vines are mixed in with the Merlot, so they might as well use them... The region has steep slopes as well as plants on the valley floor, allowing it to be exposed to climatic elements of precipitation almost simultaneously with high temperatures. The soils are gravel-rich and in most vintages give fruit that is healthy, ripe and balanced. Once made, this wine is aged for 14 months in French oak barrels 40% new, 60% neutral - a selection of fourth use and even some that are new but untoasted. It's a very clever attitude, showcasing grape variety, regional traditions and micro-climate, that really gives a stunning wine. And, again at serious value!

Names don't win prizes, but if they did, I'd give a prize to Dan Duckhorn. A hybrid Beano-Warner Brother's legend, he'd be feared for disrupting mayhem with his trusty fowl-imitation device that would render the culprit unable to continue in their misdemeanour upon hearing its mighty quack. But in truth Dan and Margaret set up their Duckhorn winery in 1976 and two years later released 800 cases each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From then they have become one of Napa's leading producers, specialising (almost uniquely for the region) as producers of spectacular Merlot.