Decoy Limited, Paso Robles, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2022

A single appellation Californian Cabernet at this price, from one of the most famous producers going? This is a really special treat!

A Cabernet that shows a heady array of black and dark red fruit, laced with gorgeous oak nuances from French barrels. The nose is full of blackberry, blackcurrant, boysenberry, caramel and vanilla pod, leading to a beautifully balanced palate of rich, structured fruit, allspice and 90% dark chocolate. The finish has notes of licorice root and black cherries. It's absolutely delicious. 

Decoy was established in 1985 as a sort of second label to the Duckhorn winery. Its following allowed the brand to grow and develop in to land purchases and eventually the creation of its own winery as a stand alone project in 2008. The range of wines made by Decoy certainly has its origins in the Duckhorn winery, following the classic varietals and winemaking philosophies that are there, but there is an elegance and liveliness to these wines that seems to be more vital, held by excellent tension. The other thing that really marks out Decoy is that they operate with fruit from outside Napa - this is a winery that represents the rest of California, in glorious, detailed precision with generosity and charm. This is a range of wines that is a most unusual thing in the US: high quality and affordable.

This wine comes from the most recent release of Decoy wines, their 'Decoy Limited' series, that sources grapes for each wine from one specific sub-region within California. While Cabernet Sauvignon is widely grown across California, it particularly prospers in certain areas - Napa and the Alexander Valley are well known, but Paso Robles is increasingly the source of stunning fruit, as you'll find here. Coming from top sites, including the winery's own vineyards, this is a classic Cabernet in execution with the power that comes from this dry and exciting region.

It's aged for 18 months in 100% French oak barrels, comprising 35% new and moderately toasted, with 65% neutral - a selection of fourth use and even some that are new but untoasted. It's a very clever attitude, showcasing grape variety, regional traditions and micro-climate, that really gives a stunning wine. And, again at serious value!

Names don't win prizes, but if they did, I'd give a prize to Dan Duckhorn. A hybrid Beano-Warner Brother's legend, he'd be feared for disrupting mayhem with his trusty fowl-imitation device that would render the culprit unable to continue in their misdemeanour upon hearing its mighty quack. But in truth Dan and Margaret set up their Duckhorn winery in 1976 and two years later released 800 cases each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. From then they have become one of Napa's leading producers, specialising (almost uniquely for the region) as producers of spectacular Merlot.